![]() ![]() Why does this happen? When you start with the coarsest grit, you apply deep scratches on the workpiece surface. You’ll end up oversanding and create an uneven finish or sanding swirls. For example, if you use a P80 to strip away caked-on, layered paint and follow it with a P180 instead of P120 or 150, the marks from the paint removal won’t totally be removed. If your process starts with rough sanding and ends with a flawless finish, you should never bypass more than one grit. What does a good grit progression look like? Are you a hobbyist or professional knifemaker? Do you make rough, handcrafted furniture or try to get sheet metal as smooth as glass? Red Label Abrasives can advise you on which grits you should have on hand for best results. The number of grit sizes that you’ll need to keep in stock will depend on what you work on. The lowest numbers denote the coarsest grains while finer ones have a high number. At Red Label Abrasives, our products use the Federation of European Producers of Abrasives (FEPA) standard, which means that our sandpaper grits are signified by the letter P and a number, such as P80 or P240. Grit sizes explainedĬoated abrasives like sanding belts, sanding discs, sanding rolls, and sanding sheets have a range of grain sizes. Any deviations can compromise the quality of the finished workpiece, so the team at Red Label Abrasives has put together this sanding grit guide to support the success of your sanding efforts. You want to start with a rougher abrasive that eliminates all stock and finish, followed by successively finer grits that clear away sanding marks until a smooth finish results.
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